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Interior removal / update.

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Wallyuph
Limey SE
77mali
thatfnthing
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Post by Wallyuph Thu Dec 04, 2014 8:20 pm

Dinomyte wrote:Just got back to this, yes I've got all the answers now.  Thanks to everyone.

I've got all the interior out of the car except these two pieces.  The parcel tray has screws and the rear defogger to remove first, got that. - Thanks thatfinthing.

The other is the piece that is between the two sail panels as chevellelaguna and dynchel both say is structural.  I guess I'll be painting it in the car. Sad

Anybody know if SEM paint will work on metal? or am I looking for a colour that's close enough that only I will know?

Yes SEM paint will work on metal
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Post by Wallyuph Thu Dec 04, 2014 8:23 pm

If your talking about the metal section at the bottom of the back window on my car I contact cemented leather in and cut it flush with the window by using a razor blade to cut it. That way it looked finished off and matched the interior color. You can paint it also.
Interior removal / update. - Page 2 <a href=Interior removal / update. - Page 2 Img_7111" />
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Post by Dinomyte Thu Dec 04, 2014 8:58 pm

dynchel wrote:Are you doing a black interior?

Not black, going with a tan / beige colour

SEM 15173 (Camel)

dash,
front kick-panels,
steering column and wheel,
pedestals for the swivel buckets
the lower parts on the console
I'm also contemplating doing the arm rest, not the whole thing just the part that comes off the inner door panel

SEM 15123 (Santa Fe)

for everything else interior. This colour is very very close to the seat upholstery on the buckets and the rear bench I have to put in.

I was also thinking of painting the set of Laguna window louvers I found this colour. It's close to the colour of the vinyl top but different enough that it won't look our of place, or paint them body colour (yellow) Need to make this decision before I start putting things back together in the spring.

After looking at Wally's car I'm starting to think just the Santa Fe colour. I think I'll also paint a piece of vinyl and then glue it in rather than paint that last piece in place.

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Post by dynchel Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:03 pm

Did you find out if you the olds shifter works?
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Post by thatfnthing Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:08 pm

Ah, thanks for the photo, Wally, now I understand what he was referring to.  In mine the package tray reaches all the way to the window, so that section is not visible.
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Post by 77mali Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:15 pm

Get some SEM triple X primer (for plastic parts) & use a good "soap" to clean all them nooks & crannies in the plastic trim. SEM makes that too- good stuff. I like their products a lot, great quality.

BTW- you mean color, right? Wink
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Post by dynchel Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:16 pm

He's from Canada eh.
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Post by 77mali Thu Dec 04, 2014 9:20 pm

Yep. We Yanks got rid of those ridiculous extra U's.
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Post by Wallyuph Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:05 am

Read this post
https://www.g3gm.com/t5617-painting-interior-plastic?highlight=painting+plastic

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Re: Painting Interior Plastic

Post by Wallyuph on Tue May 29, 2012 9:57 am
I have dealt with this problem for years. Bull dog is better then no adhesion promoter at all but still lifted in spots. I even have sprayed with regular PPG base coat and cleared the plastic with Auto clear and a flattening agent in it the clear and it was still popping up. I now use SEM all there products from start to finish. I get my products from my local Orielly’s auto store.

Check out the technical data sheet on this page for instruction I have touched on below.
http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/flexible-coatings/color-coat/


Here are the steps I use.
Handling and Application
PREPARATION: Vinyl:
1. Clean first with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad.
2. Rinse with water and dry. If contamination still exists, water will bead on the surface. Repeat
this step until beading no longer occurs.
3. Clean thoroughly with 38343 VINYL PREP using a clean lint free towel and wiping in one
direction.
4. Rinse with water and dry.
Plastic:
1. Clean first with 39362 SEM SOAP and a gray scuff pad.
2. Rinse with water and dry. If contamination still exists, water will bead on the surface. Repeat
this step until beading no longer occurs.
3. Clean with 38353 PLASTIC/LEATHER PREP.
4. To promote adhesion on ABS, PVC and other similar plastics, apply a medium wet coat of
38363 SAND FREE. COLOR COAT should be applied while 38363 is still wet. As the
38363 evaporates, the COLOR COAT is drawn into the surface creating excellent adhesion.
-ORTo promote adhesion on TPO, EPDM, PP and other similar thermoplastics, use 39863
PLASTIC ADHESION PROMOTER or 77723 XXX ADHESION PROMOTER.
TECH TIP: If the type of plastic is unknown, place a drop of acetone on the back of the plastic and rub
it with your finger. If the plastic smears and melts, use 38363 SAND FREE for your adhesion
promoter. If acetone does not have an affect on the plastic, use 39863 PLASTIC ADHESION
PROMOTER or 77723 XXX ADHESION PROMOTER.

Then top coat with light coats of SEM Color of your choice.


39362 SEM SOAP
http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/prep-products/scuff-and-clean/
is specifically designed as a first step cleaner for all repair and refinishing procedures.

77723 XXX ADHESION PROMOTER
http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/specialty-products/xxx/xxx-adhesion-promoter/

39863 PLASTIC ADHESION
PROMOTER
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Dec 05, 2014 7:48 am

Are U guys making fun of me?

U know you're all driving a car made for Canada. That's why they're called eh-bodies. Smile

BTW- don't know about the shifter yet, but it looks like it will fit. The worst is I may need a different / longer transmission shifter cable.

Regarding the primer and clean up of parts I'd seen that post, lots of good information in that one, thank Wally.

I'll keep you guys posted, right now it's clean parts, and get the floor fixed, nothing exciting.
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Post by 77mali Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:28 am

LOL ... @ Eh bodies.

I have some family in London & Mississauga- that's a nice area. Lot's of good folks there.
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:35 am

77mali wrote:LOL ... @ Eh bodies.

I have some family in London & Mississauga- that's a nice area.  Lot's of good folks there.

You're welcome to drop in next time you're in the neighbourhood. (that's Canadian for near my home Smile )
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Post by 77mali Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:41 am

I took a trip out there a few years ago via Niagra but I'd like to drive the Chevy out there (if it ever gets finished) & cross over again. Your side of the falls is soooooooooooo much more fun.
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Post by thatfnthing Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:40 am

Yep -- the American side is all chemical plants.
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:07 pm

You're all welcome, we could line the street with g3's and have a BBQ in the back yard.

Maybe when the Fleetwood Country Cruise In is held. It's supposed to be the biggest outdoor show in all of North America. Over 5000 cars the last time I went, and it's only a 10 minuted drive from home.

http://fleetwoodcountrycruizein.com/2014/2014.html
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Post by dynchel Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:20 pm

Are you near niagra falls?
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Post by Dinomyte Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:01 pm

Our home (London) is about 2 hours from the falls.
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Post by thatfnthing Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:53 am

In theory I can be there quicker -- it's only 15 minutes from my house. Of course, then it's 90 minutes to cross the bridge. Smile
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Post by dynchel Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:47 am

It takes about two hours to get to the Canadian border for me.  These are the times I wish I would have had road trips in mind when I set up my car. Sad
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Post by Wallyuph Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:14 pm

dynchel wrote:It takes about two hours to get to the Canadian border for me.  These are the times I wish I would have had road trips in mind when I set up my car. Sad

I'm trying to set mine up for road trips as its so much fun going on them. Even more fun when a group of us go together.
This was a trip to gun flint trail
Interior removal / update. - Page 2 <a href=Interior removal / update. - Page 2 Dsc_6510"
/>

Even though it rained and we got cars all muddy I would do it again in a heart beat. Better than most shows I have been to.
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Post by dynchel Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:33 pm

Yeah mines got 373 gears, side pipes that drone (and dump 3 feet from your ear), no heater, no sound deadener, & is a absolute pig on gas (premium only) not made for road trips.
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Post by Wallyuph Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:57 pm

dynchel wrote:Yeah mines got 373 gears, side pipes that drone (and dump 3 feet from your ear), no heater, no sound deadener, & is a absolute pig on gas (premium only) not made for road trips.

I'm now running 373 gears also and just before it was put away we got 22 miles per gallon out of the LS3 set up on freeway. Exhaust is good over all with windows up crusing is perfect. With them down pretty good also. Loud when you put your foot in it. Have to finish hooking up A/C but heat works. I do have Hush matt in the floor of the car. Just need to get Fuel gauge working I pinched some thing some where as both wire just ground out coming from sender. I was last one in storage place so will be first one out. At this point I cant wait for spring.
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Post by Dinomyte Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:38 pm

dynchel wrote:Yeah mines got 373 gears, side pipes that drone (and dump 3 feet from your ear), no heater, no sound deadener, & is a absolute pig on gas (premium only) not made for road trips.

All this means is that you'll start faster, be cold and have a headache when you get here, with no money for Tylenol or coffee. What's the problem?
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Post by dynchel Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:39 pm

Plus broke....
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Post by thatfnthing Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:04 pm

Dinomyte wrote:All this means is that you'll start faster, be cold and have a headache when you get here, with no money for Tylenol or coffee.  What's the problem?

Hmmm...sounds suspiciously like going to work. Suspect
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