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G3GM 1973 to 1977 A-bodys. Chevelles, Monte Carlos, El Caminos, Laguna, 442, Cutlass, Malibu, GTO, LeMans, Century, Regal, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Sprint, Gran Sport, Can Am, Hurst-olds, and other 73-77 A-bodies


rusted nuts

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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:18 am

Is there a boxed-end wrench that will grip a rounded nut?I have 2 more bucket seat mounting nuts to remove and that would fit the bill.If not I'll have to resort to ham-fisted butchery.Thanx.

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Post by Bruisr Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:38 am

You might try craftsmen or husky wrenches they have some that will remove messed up bolts and nuts.
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Post by Laguna Budman Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:08 am

Robo-Grip??? Or maybe that wrench compay that is suing SEARS, can't remember the name of it.
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Post by BlackChevelleSS Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:33 am

Giant set of channel locks have someone grip them as tight as possible.

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Post by JB2wheeler Wed Jan 16, 2013 3:31 am

A dab of JB Weld inside of a chinese socket hooked to an extention handle should do the trick. Of course you have to wait until the epoxy hardens on the socket and bolt head. JB
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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:52 am

If you have access for turning try some big vice grips too (any of the other mentions will work also).

Another way, if you have a dremmel tool, would be to square off the top of the bolt to get a big A$$ wrench on it- something that will give you enough torque.

Friggin seat belt bolt design are a disgrace on these cars.
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Post by dynchel Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:20 am

fishhead wrote:Is there a boxed-end wrench that will grip a rounded nut?I have 2 more bucket seat mounting nuts to remove and that would fit the bill.If not I'll have to resort to ham-fisted butchery.Thanx.
what usually works for me is to heat the nut cherry red and hammer a socket that is a tight fit over it. The only problem is you probably don't have the clearance to do so next to a seat safety.
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Post by pila Wed Jan 16, 2013 2:59 pm

One of the ways I get those off is to drill through the side of the nut in a couple places. Then a center punch can be used to expand the holes a bit, to relieve the nut tension a bit & get it off with Vise Grips.
This works on exhaust nuts also. And even drilling a couple small holes in the end of a nut, along side of a stud, can release the grip of the threads a bit.

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Post by Tom77 Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:01 pm

Snap On sells a nut splitter (ouch) you put it over the nut tighten the bolt and the nut will split and fall off.
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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:31 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions.I failed to mention the "problem nut" is in a very tight space,its the rear left corner of the passenger side bucket seat.The seat mechanisms underneath are mega-corroded and the sliding tracks are non-functional due to rust so there is no such thing as moving the seat to gain access.I actually used a mirror to get the drivers side seat removed and mostly worked by feel.The nut is nicely rounded after trying a "flaring wrench?"because it is rusted soft.I'll try to find one of those new grip-type boxed-end wrenches next,there is absolutely no room for anything else.If all else fails I have a hammer and chisel to cut the top half off.So far nothing is damaged and all pieces are in order in this entertaining little venture...not bad for a crazy old chevy nut on a budget. clown

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Post by Biomedtech Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:47 pm

Sorry gotta say it....

I hate it when my nuts get rusty!

cheers
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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:52 pm

LOL...I didn't want to be the one to say it (this time).

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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 8:59 pm

I can't believe it took you guys that long. cheers

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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:29 pm

The seat comes apart and you can have just the rail left.
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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:42 pm

Does removal from the tracks involve more..."Rusty Nuts?" clown

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Post by 1973montec Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:06 pm

Chris and i did it to my 73 monte parts car. If you have the other seat out its easy to see how easy it is.

First there are 4-1/2 bolts holding seat to base.

On top of base is cover held on by 4- 1/4" head little screws.

Swivel part is held on to tracks with 4-1/2 nuts.

They should of never been close to water to get that rusted. The hardest part will be working upside down to get seat of base.
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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:28 pm

Thanx! Very good info.I've never disassembled a bucket seat before.I love Chevrolet but why the heck couldn't they spend a little more for stainless hardware?

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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:31 pm

And have the distributor in the front of the engine. Mad

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Post by 77mali Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:42 pm

If GM could save $0.01 back then...they did. Personally I don't really mind the Dist in the back of the engine but functionally for repair, removal, adjustment it would certainly make it easier to fiddle with.

BTW...Rusty Nuts sounds like it could be a good name for an "Actor".
clown clown
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Post by fishhead Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:49 pm

Razz LOL! Think car club.."RUSTY NUTZ"....think I'll print up some cool jackets...

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Post by Biomedtech Wed Jan 16, 2013 11:59 pm

Heh, it would make a nice hotrod personalized license plate but alas 1 too many characters for Michigan Sad
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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Thu Jan 17, 2013 12:05 am

RSTY NTZ

Works for ohio



I saw a plate on a cadi at a car show,
370H55V.

Turn it over.
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Post by 77mali Thu Jan 17, 2013 12:08 am

1973 454 MONTE wrote:RSTY NTZ

Works for ohio



I saw a plate on a cadi at a car show,
370H55V.

Turn it over.

That's funny!!!!
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Post by fishhead Thu Jan 17, 2013 12:09 am

I thought about printing a novelty fake drivers license with the name Jack S*%# ..can you imagine the look on the officers face? He would either laugh or be REALLY ticked off...

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Post by 1973 454 MONTE Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:28 pm

rusted nuts Rusty_10
rusted nuts 74_bmp10rusted nuts Ahole_10
rusted nuts 74a_bm10
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