Converting to Manual Brakes?
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G3GM :: G3 Tech :: Performance
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Converting to Manual Brakes?
Has anyone converted from power disc/drum brakes to manual disk/disk brakes? What setup did you go with as far as master cylinder (bore size), brakes, prop valve, etc?
I’ve been looking at this caliper setup, a 2 piston replacement for stock front rotors and would get a similar disk conversion setup on the rear. I don’t really need huge rotors and 6 piston brakes for what I am doing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-11291-bk
Also looking at this Wilwood master cylinder with prop valve but not sure what bore size to use.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-261-13269-bk
Or this unit looks nice too.
https://www.performanceonline.com/Disc-brake-Master-Cylinder-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-Aluminum-Hybrid-Type/
I’ve talked to Wilwood techs and they say you should have at least 6:1 ratio on your pedal for manual brakes. On my brake pedal the current post that the push rod connects to for power brakes looks like it is about a 3:1 ratio and the hole above it would be around 4:1 for manual brakes, does that sound about right? The pedal length is roughly 12”, the manual hole is 3” down and the power hole is about 4” down, giving me those ratios.
I’m also replacing all of the brake lines with NiCopp instead of steel, anyone used it? And flex lines to braided stainless.
I’ve been looking at this caliper setup, a 2 piston replacement for stock front rotors and would get a similar disk conversion setup on the rear. I don’t really need huge rotors and 6 piston brakes for what I am doing.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-11291-bk
Also looking at this Wilwood master cylinder with prop valve but not sure what bore size to use.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-261-13269-bk
Or this unit looks nice too.
https://www.performanceonline.com/Disc-brake-Master-Cylinder-Proportioning-Valve-Kit-Aluminum-Hybrid-Type/
I’ve talked to Wilwood techs and they say you should have at least 6:1 ratio on your pedal for manual brakes. On my brake pedal the current post that the push rod connects to for power brakes looks like it is about a 3:1 ratio and the hole above it would be around 4:1 for manual brakes, does that sound about right? The pedal length is roughly 12”, the manual hole is 3” down and the power hole is about 4” down, giving me those ratios.
I’m also replacing all of the brake lines with NiCopp instead of steel, anyone used it? And flex lines to braided stainless.
Iguy- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 3
Re: Converting to Manual Brakes?
Would an original manual master work for you? Our cars did come with them.
Joe73- Donating Member
- Street Cred : 83
Re: Converting to Manual Brakes?
Joe73 wrote:Would an original manual master work for you? Our cars did come with them.
I wound up drilling my brake pedal 2" down from the pivot to give me a 6:1 ratio and just bought a 3/8" clevis to connect the push rod. That put the rod going into the master cylinder level and I still get full range of travel (just over an inch). After talking to 2 different Wilwood techs I went with the 15/16" bore master. Hopefully it works out, I'll update the thread in the Spring when I get the car running.
Also, anyone thinking of going to Nicopp brake lines, it is super easy to flare and bend by hand.
Iguy- G3GM Member
- Street Cred : 3
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