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G3GM 1973 to 1977 A-bodys. Chevelles, Monte Carlos, El Caminos, Laguna, 442, Cutlass, Malibu, GTO, LeMans, Century, Regal, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Sprint, Gran Sport, Can Am, Hurst-olds, and other 73-77 A-bodies


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G3GM :: G3 :: General Discussion

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Post by special4 Mon Dec 09, 2013 1:41 pm

Hey guys
Has anyone painted Por15 with flexcoat?
thanks

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Post by driveit Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:59 am

Sorry not me. I bought some por15 once and gave it away as I had no time to use it. Wish I still had it though.
Call them or google it. I'm sure that there are some that have tried it.
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Post by Hawk03 Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:08 am

Everything I have read is that if you don't prep the surface correct the Por15 will not last. I bought some ZeroRust but I haven't used it yet. 77Mali has used por15 on his car if you look through his project thread.
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Post by 77mali Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:26 am

I like Por15 a lot.  Only product I've ever used that actually works on rust.  The prep stuff they sell is a must- the cleaner and the metal conditioner- on body panels.  I've found that on the frame you can go right over rust as long as it's clean, dry & sound.  

Flex coat is on my short list of paint to try out as well as their "Hard-nose" which is a two component that is a hi-gloss top coat. Haven't used either yet but I want to try both to see the finished look.  I bought some of their Tie-coat primer which is a high build "safe for over Por-15" self etch for in between the Por15 base & whatever finish I decide to use. This won't be for a while though.

If you use the Tiecoat over the Por15, you can pretty much use whatever finish coat you want.  SEM makes good paint as well as Duplicolor that are fairly inexpensive compared to the big guy's such as PPG, etc.
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Post by 77mali Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:34 am

I'll say this though- Por15 is harder to work with than regular paints. It's very sensitive to moisture & humidity. The more RH in the air, the faster it will set up. I have taken to buying the smaller containers as there is less waste. It's a pain in the Arse resealing a big can only to find the next time you need to use it there is a 1/4" cured membrane on top of usable product. Also it sticks to EVERYTHING and won't come off once it's cured. I use surgical gloves every time now. It won't come off skin for like 4 or 5 days.
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Post by dynchel Tue Dec 10, 2013 12:14 pm

You have to be careful, some of the duplicolor paints are old school lacquer and not compatible with newer more common urethene products.
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