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My '73 build long project

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Post by Cdub74 Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:51 pm

Looking great!!!
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Post by Trbulnc Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:15 pm

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So here is a rough check with a Percy's modified wheel measurement device. This is set for a 13" wide wheel. Has clearance on outer lip and will be more after rolling but inside just touches wheel well. Could prob notch the frame and get by but since I want to lower it not sure it wouldn't rub plus since I am installing a 4 link setup I want more frame than a notched in area.

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Post by Trbulnc Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:18 pm

My '73 build long project - Page 3 2C165ECC-D5D1-4429-971D-9ACA546F9DFF-82659-00003E5C4C31801E

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And almost all roughed in.

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Post by BK-75 Mon Nov 19, 2012 2:02 pm

Making great progress, enjoy seeing the updates!

Also, is that a German Auto Parts "G" sticker on your toolbox? It caught my eye as I have the same one on my black toolbox Smile
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Post by Trbulnc Tue Nov 20, 2012 1:32 pm

Good eye. I'm a vdubber too.

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Post by Jim_Rockford Sun Dec 23, 2012 12:08 pm

Hope you are using a good 2k epoxy primer after going through all the trouble to strip it down to metal.. Reg primer will not block the moisture.
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Post by Trbulnc Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:49 pm

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Well she is out finally. With good timing of another thread. Hard to do by yourself. Just time and triple checking.


Now, anyone ever done a mini tub and 4 link setup? Already running in my head how to do it, as usual nothing on the web but I'm sure it's been done

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Post by 77mali Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:40 am

I'm working alone too- not easy sometimes but your project is coming along great! Post some pics of how you have the body supported if you can. TY.
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Post by Trbulnc Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:44 pm

So a long overdue picture post. A little progress and a lot of planning. I designed some frame rails for 3x2 to replace existing. They are on order so I'm excited. First two rails are in and tacked. Front will be cut for driveshaft loop and back will be cut out all but 3" on each side. Then cut existing and weld in new rails. All suspension parts are here. Have a rear end also. Notice the air horn too. Lol.
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Last edited by Trbulnc on Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:53 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post by Trbulnc Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:45 pm

Sorry. Trying to post from a kindle and it isn't friendly

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Post by Trbulnc Wed Mar 20, 2013 9:51 pm

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Post by Trbulnc Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:07 pm

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Custom built frame rails here and are really nice. Ordered extra length so I could square them easily. Cut and test fit on outside. They will be inset 4" each side from existing frame rails. Really didn't plan on that much but they will be covering the body mount any less.

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Post by Trbulnc Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:35 pm

Well frame rails are tacked in and set. Fit really well. Tack welded two braces in the center to keep everything from moving before I cut. Took longer to square the edges so I can plate across them and tie into the new rails than anything. Next is the rear and the 4 link bars and getting everything in alignment.

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Post by 77mali Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:32 pm

Just curious- what kind of power train are you putting in that will require all this reinforcing?
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Post by alleyball4 Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:50 pm

did you put the bends in, or did you have that done?

if you did them, what did you use?

Also, there's a guy somewhere south of Lexington, Kentucky, that fabs up frames from your old one, but he doesn't mess with tapping any of the body bushing holes, etc.

The last I heard, he charged around $1500. Is that price, high or low?

I tried to track him down, but have been unsuccessful. They say he goes to a lot of the swap meets to drum up his business.



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Post by Trbulnc Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:11 am

Most of the rails you see will be trimmed out. Just there for support while cutting. Front rail will get a drive shaft loop and back will get trimmed at new rails. Two pieces in center are just to keep it all lined up until full welded. I am going to run a 632 in it.

Rails were bent, used a company called Autoweld. Their turnaround was 2 days. I designed them and sent them the dimensions.

Price doesn't seem too high. Only body mount I have to fab is the one at the top of the rail. Kept all my existing ones.

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Post by thatfnthing Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:05 am

alleyball4 wrote:Also, there's a guy somewhere south of Lexington, Kentucky, that fabs up frames from your old one, but he doesn't mess with tapping any of the body bushing holes, etc.

The last I heard, he charged around $1500. Is that price, high or low?

I tried to track him down, but have been unsuccessful. They say he goes to a lot of the swap meets to drum up his business.

Depends on what's included, but it sounds like a decent deal, even if you have to add your own mounts. A "bare" Fatman or Art Morrison chassis goes for 3-4 times that.
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Post by Trbulnc Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:56 pm

Just a few pictures. 4 link is assembled and really nice. Quality impressed me and they are much beefier than i expected. Ready to fit up. Rear is stripped and under the car ready for fitment. Been burning some wire welding it all up. Should have my box end plates tomorrow. Cheaper to buy them than make them.

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Post by Trbulnc Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:40 am

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Finally satisfied with all my measurements and angles so 4 link is set and tacked with rear mocked under it. Next is the bags. Was waiting to see what I had for clearance before deciding how to mount. Will be top mount in the rear and I can add mounts for true coil overs on the rear later if I wish to swap.

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Post by Trbulnc Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:17 am

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Bags are tacked in now. Ready for shocks. Going to use coil over mounts so I can install coil overs if I want but just mount shocks on them now. Ordering pieces as I get to each phase do I can see what works and my options for next step. Hope to wrap the back up in a few weeks so I can get it back under the body and them start on the front.

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Post by Bruisr Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:34 pm

Been watching your work, You really got this going and looking good. Can I ask? Been looking at the blueprints of your framerails, How come some of the dimensions are different? It even looks like 2 different size rails were used, did you notice something when designing them? What kind of welder are you using, and type of gas if any?
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Post by Trbulnc Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:50 pm

Rail picture on the right was original measurements. Picture on the left is what I wanted. They are 2x3 rectangular. Original is bigger in areas so that is why. Bottom picture is the two overlapped Plus I dropped the new ones lower to the bottom of existing to gain some clearance.

Welder is a miller 225. 75/25 gas and .030 wire. Nothing special.

Thanks for the compliment. Not fast by any means but all myself so lots of learning and thinking along the way. Not much info out there either or pictures to follow on these cars.

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Post by Trbulnc Thu May 02, 2013 1:08 pm

My '73 build long project - Page 3 94739071-1484-4A1E-8E03-87515D192070-37676-0000322CE7731435

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A little progress. Worked a set f 4 link brackets to fit under the bag mounts. Came out nice, have the cross bar and tabs ready. Need to measure for shock height. Also have a diagonal link to fit too

Haven't spent as much time as I want, also are pics of my daily driver carnage. Cracked cyl and dropped a valve. Had 375,000 miles do can't say much. Had a spare built a while back as a backup so I've been thrashing getting them swapped. Had a backup Durango but 15mpg sucks compared to the 55 I was used to getting

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Post by alleyball4 Fri May 03, 2013 2:15 am

lovin' the pictures, and following the progress .... thanks for taking the time to keep us in the loop !
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Post by Trbulnc Fri May 31, 2013 2:50 pm

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Been a while so I'll post a few. Rear is done and all hard welded and a coat of rust encapsulator ready for some paint. Will get the rear painted this weekend and all assembled under the car again.

My really good fab buddy came up last weekend and helped me with the front. Got one side mocked up. Started cutting a lower plate to weld on and burnt my last plasma tip. Had to order more. Front will be bagged too but are really deep arms. I'll see how it works out at ride height and dropped. Might or might not require drop spindles for me to get the stance I want.

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